Flashing Problems Lead to Roof Repairs
Your flashing is the most sensitive part of your roof, yet it is critical that your flashing is intact and well designed. Flashing should be designed out of sheet metal that is corrosion resistant. Metal base flashing does not connect well with bituminous materials like asphalt shingles. As their connections crack, water seeps in. The metal is also weak at joints and corners where metal fatigue and corrosion can degrade it over time. Denver roofers recommend bituminous base flashings.
These bituminous flashings need to be protected by metal counter flashings above to stop water entry. Common problems with these metal flashings include being built too high above the base so that it does not adequately protect and separation of the flashing from the roof. If not properly sealed and tightened, they offer no water protection and therefore are basically useless. If the roof was not properly made with realistic angles, or the roofers just did a poor job of installing the flashing, then the joints could crack, leading to a Denver roof replacement.
Another common flashing problem occurs around
any objects that penetrate the roof, like ventilation pipes or chimneys. Smaller penetrations like exhaust pipes can be faced with flat metal attached directly to the roofing material and stripped and sealed with felt. Chimneys and other large penetrations of the roofing membrane should have a curb between the edge and the roof that is then coated with bitumen and metal flashing. Problems that may cause a Denver roof replacement include broken seams inside the metal curb construction and problems from separation of the flashing base caused by the movement of the vent pipes. Forgetting the top wood mailers that connect the curb to the penetration because sagging.
Roofs need protection around their drainage systems.
Even roofs that are almost completely level need drainage and flashing protection around those drainage areas. Although roofing materials are meant to be water resistant, they cannot handle standing water. The drainage system should be designed to remove water as quickly as possible. Problems like poorly designed or blocked drainage will cause water damage and eventually roof replacement. If you see any standing water call a roofer immediately, as it may indicate structural problems.
To keep your roof intact along its edge, you may need special roofing materials. The edge of the roof is the most vulnerable to wind damage. Gravel stops and metal edge strips are used to shield the Roof edge protection Brisbane from damage. Try to keep these materials out of the water line to prevent water from deteriorating them.
Weather Watch or Storm Guard Leak Barriers.
Use either Weather Watch or Storm Guard Leak Barriers. Weather Watch Leak Barriers offers these features…a mineral surface for better traction, Fiberglass reinforced for added strength, 1.5 squares or 2.0 squares per roll, split back release film which makes for an easier installation, Repositionable Weather Watch Leak Barrier is designed to be set in place and repositioned if need be, it is less likely to stick itself, it uses a time released adhesive that reduces hassles if material folds on itself during the installation, seals to almost any surface, seals to all the critical areas, seals nails, staples, and seals to plumbing vent pipes.
Storm Guard Leak Barrier features a good traction in heat film surface, it is fiberglass reinforced for extra strength, 2.0 squares per roll, split back release film which makes it easy to install, of course it is repositionable if need be. And as it will seal itself to many different surfaces, deals to roof decks, nails, staples, and roof vent pipes.
DIRECT SUNLIGHT: Important Fact
Leak barriers are not designed to hold up to direct sunlight for any long periods of time. Weather Watch or Storm Guard Leak Barriers are never to be installed if the exposure could exceed for 60 days.
LEAK BARRIER LOCATIONS
Leak barriers should be installed at the eaves to give protection from wind-driven rains and ice dams, in all valleys, a full 36″ width throughout the entire valley length, around all plumbing vent pipes, 20″ square section applied tight to the pipe, around the dormers for added protection under the flashing areas, around all chimneys to safeguard against any leak sources, at roof slope transition areas when a roof pitch flows to a lower pitch, there is a danger of ponding water, around the skylights to seal off critical areas that may leak, and at the rake edges, hips, and ridges from protection from wind-driven rain.
When installing GAF-Elk Leak Barriers at eaves, install anywhere there is the threat of a snow load, most building codes require installing Leak Barriers at the eaves, extend up the roof to at least 24″ inside of the warm wall, the “warm wall” is the interior finished wall, two courses of 36″ are needed on a typical structure, lap second course over first by 3″.